|
BIOGRAPHY OF THE ARTIST Erte was born Romain
de Tirtoff in St. Petersburg, Russia. The only
son of an admiral in the Imperial Fleet, he was
raised amidst Russia's social elite. As a young
boy, he was fascinated by the Persian miniatures
he found in his father's library. These exotic,
brightly patterned designs continued to be
important to him and influenced the development
of his style. He moved to Paris at the age of
eighteen and took the name Erte, from the French
pronunciation of his initials, R and T.
In 1915 he began his long relationship with
Harper's Bazaar, during which time he
created over 240 covers for the magazine. His
fashion designs also appeared in many other
publications, making him one of the most widely
recognized artists of the 1920s. He also
designed costumes and sets for the theater. In
1976 the French government awarded Erte the
title of Officer of Arts and Letters, and in
1982 the Medaille de Vermeil de la Ville de
Paris was bestowed upon him. His work is in many
prominent museums, including the Metropolitan
Museum of Art in New York, the Los Angeles
County Museum, the Smithsonian Institution in
Washington, D.C., and the Victoria and Albert
Museum in London.
The designs created by Erté during his long
and illustrious life influenced not only the
world of theatre, film and fashion, but an
entire art movement as well. The genius of the
artist is evidenced by an enormous body of work
that is considered among the most influential
and unique of the 20th century. Erté—Romain de
Tirtoff—was born in Russia in 1892, and died at
age 97 in 1990. His legendary career spanned
nearly the entire length of his life. In 1912,
Erté moved to Paris and his unique talent was
immediately recognized by the city’s most
established couturiers. In 1915, he began an
association with Harper’s Bazaar by designing
covers of each of their magazines for the next
22 years. The influence of his work as a result
of the high visibility of this periodical
influenced an entire art movement that was to
become known as “Art Deco”. Throughout this
period, the artist also created original costume
and fashion designs for many of the era’s most
renowned screen actresses, including Joan
Crawford, Lillian Gish, Marion Davies, Anna
Pavlova, Norma Shearer and others. His creations
for the stage included extravagent designs for
productions at such venues as New York’s Radio
City Music Hall, the Casino de Paris and the
Paris Opera, as well as for the Folies-Bergères
and George White’s Scandals.
At the age of 75, Erté was encouraged to embark
on a new career and began to recreate the
remarkable designs of his youth in bronze and
serigraphy. The Art Deco movement was hence
reborn. A lifetime of international success and
recognition has ensured this unique artist's
place in the annals of art history, and his
original designs grace the permanent collections
of prestigious museums throughout the world
including New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art,
Museum of Modern Art, the Smithsonian
Institution and London’s Victoria & Albert
Museum.
Erté is perhaps best remembered for the
gloriously extravagant costumes and stage sets
that he designed for the Folies-Bergère in Paris
and George White's Scandals in New York, which
exploit to the full his taste for the exotic and
romantic, and his appreciation of the sinuous
and lyrical human figure.
As well as the music-hall, Erté also designed
for the opera and the traditional theatre, and
spent a brief and not wholly satisfactory period
in Hollywood in 1925, at the invitation of Louis
B. Mayer, head of Metro-Goldwyn-Meyer.
After a period of relative obscurity in the
1940s and 1950s, Erté's characteristic style
found a new and enthusiastic market in the
1960s, and the artist responded to renewed
demand by creating a series of colorful
lithographic prints and sculpture.
| Роман (Тыртов)
Эрте родился в 1892 в Петербурге.
В 1906 занимался рисованием под
руководством И. Репина. В 1912
поселился в Париже где поступил
в академию Р. Жульена. Под
псевдонимом Эрте публиковал
рисунки в русском журнале
Дамский Мир и парижском – Газетт
дю Бон Тон. В 1913 исполнил
эскизы костюмов для спектакля
Минарет с участием Маты Хари в
театре Ренессанс. В начале войны
перебрался в Монте-Карло, затем
в США, где работал для ведущих
модных салонов, таких как Генри
Бендл, Альтман, Лихтенштейн. В
1915 начал 22-летнее
сотрудничество в журнале Харпенс
Базар, для которого исполнил
многочисленные рисунки мод
верхней одежды, обуви, шляп,
перчаток, вееров, проекты
интерьеров. Рисовал также для
американских журналов Вог,
Космополитен, Лэдиз Хоум Джорнал
и других. Разрабатывал рисунки
тканей для нью-йоркской
корпорации Амалгамэйтед Силк.
Занимался также сценографией. В
1917-1930 сотрудничал с
парижским варьете Фоли Бержер. В
1920-е исполнил эскизы костюмов
для бродвейских мюзик-холов
Зигфрид Фолиз, Винтергарден,
Френч Казино. В 1925 работал по
контракту с голливудской
кинофирмой Метро Голдвин Майер.
Создавал костюмы и декорации для
парижских варьете Баль Табарэн
(1933-1952) и Ла Нувель Ив
(1950-1958), для нью-йоркского
театра Латинский квартал
(1964-1965). Оформил драму Федра
Расина для театра Вье Коломбье в
Париже, оперы Манон Массне и
Риголетто Верди для Чикагской
оперы, Пеллеас и Мелизанда
Дебюсси для Метрополитен-Оперы в
Нью-Йорке. В 1970-е оформлял в
Париже постановки Ролана Пти с
участием Рене Жармен (Зизи).
Работал в основном пером и тушью,
реже акварелью и гуашью. В
поздний период обращался к
литографии. Рисунки выполнены в
стиле «Арт Деко». Умер художник
в Париже в 1990. |
|
|